Carpe Denim say:

The V&A’s fresh exhibit: fashioning masculinities: the art of menswear boasts an illustrious display of 100 looks and 100 artworks, spanning from as early as the 16th century to contemporary pieces created by the likes of Gucci, YSL and Harris Reed. Whilst the sheer volume of work on display is impressive itself, the curator’s decision to carve the display into three sections ‘undressed’, ‘overdressed’ and ‘redressed’ provides a particularly compelling vantage point to showcase the splendour, fluidity, and flare of men’s garments.

The first section of the exhibit ‘undressed’ plays focus to the physical body and the impact of Greek, Roman and Renaissance periods in sculpting the male form. Particularly striking in this section is the role of modern designers copying silhouettes dubbed to be ‘ideal’ body type with Jean Paul Gautier’s 1996 Trompe L’Oeil jacket noted as a stand-out piece in Carpe Denim’s eyes.

Overdressed’s ode to the colour and flamboyance within historical accounts of men’s fashion undoubtedly ignites current conversations around gender. This section highlights the popularity of the colour pink historically in the menswear scene, a stark contrast to contemporary slogans such as “pink to make the boys wink.” Our personal favourite from this room is a fuzzy, baby-pink suit piece designed by Wales Bonner. It’s punchy, daring and, crucially, exhibits the power and allure that can be conjured from wearing this tone.

The final section of the exhibit ‘redressed’ provides a somewhat sombre, almost morbid-like nature to the exhibit; the symmetrically lined frock coats engulfing the room, make the room feel pretty soulless. Yet, whilst significantly less eye-catching, this section is crucial in emphasising the significance of tailoring within the menswear scene, with Saville Row esc pieces in full display.

The final room of ‘redressed’ does however manage to inject a lease of life into this section of the exhibit. Experimentation and ostentation are at the core of this section, with the three pieces in this room showcasing the diversity of masculine attire. Harry’s styles viral Gucci gown is the ultimate ‘cherry’ on top to the show’s richness, setting the stage in marking what the future of menswear could look like.

Carpe Denim’s one overarching critique of fashioning masculinities? Considering the staggering stronghold that athleisure brands such as Nike have over the modern-day menswear market, an exploration into this sector could have provided a “stronger celebration of the masculine wardrobe.” Though it’s a far stretch from the overwhelming feel of extravagance the exhibit exudes, seam-ingly integrating this into the collections would provide a vivid insight into the ‘macho-ness’ that dominates today’s menswear trends. Whilst less glamorous, its undoubtedly an important talking point for men’s fashion.

 So what actually is menswear? The V&A’s take: ‘menswear’ is as fluid as we’d like it to be and, crucially, a fabricated reflection of the era we find ourselves in.